Tuesday, January 26, 2010

Replublic Day... What a fucking joke...

26th January 2010, all my friends (me as well) are so happy, its 60th Republic day anniversary. More important than that we have a day full of sports action... India taking on Bangladesh, then Australia taking on Pakistan (my cable guy says 80% of his customers watch that too, "cricket is god in india sir...).

So I get up early in the morning, take bath and go down at the society lawns to salute the Indian flag and sing the national anthem along with all the oldies of the society. The younger ones offcourse are either sleeping or most of them have got their cricket matches fixed; society A vs. B, the middle aged one's are sleeping while their kids are carrying tricolors to the ground and are being taken care of by the maids. So I enjoy this small ceremony and tea-biscuit session after that. I find all those tricolors in the floor or in the garden while on my way. A few years back I used to get very emotional watching such disrespect to the tricolor but i guess i am used to it or seek comfort in the fact that those tiny piece of papers are not our flags but just some toys or some replica of my national flag.

When I come back my wife also has woken up and we are all set for a wonderful holiday with breakfast and TV. I got Dhokla, Jalebi, Khandwa and Fafda for breakfast. I search my TV for some time but could not find Star Sports. Ohh my god, yeh to klpd ho gaya... today is rafa vs. murray, how can i miss it. Fight a lot with the cable guy who tries to explain me that in India no one watches anything but cricket and so he can give only two slots for sports channel which are showing cricket right now. Somehow I convince him to give another slot so I can watch Australian Open. One of the decisions I regret till date is why I disconnected my TATA sky connection in favor of this local cable guy.

Anyways the cable is on and I am enjoying the australian open. There is nothing which gives you more satisfaction than tennis match where the two opponents are as good as rafa and murray. The kind of tennis they play is much different than any of the non-top-10 guys play and thats probably why i start watching the matches after pre-quarter final of every grand slam.

The match is going fine and all of a sudden the cable goes off. I call up the cable guy and he says there is some problem and wait for half and hour and cuts the line before i can ask anything else. My wife who is quitely passing her time till now asks for a small favor and I shout at her like a maniac. Thats not because of this cable problem. But because of this bigger joke called the republic day.

I am always so scared of these government holidays that I pray to god that days like 15th aug, 26th jan and 2nd oct should be deleted from the calender. All the jokers of the world, be it NCP or the Shiv Sena will blabber on their loudspeakers for the entire day and kill the entire day for me and reduce my immunity even more. For i can bear any kind of pollution but when it comes to noise pollution, i get really really crazy and irritating. I start behaving like a moron. Shout at any one and every one coming my way and try to cut off myself from the world. The effect is so much that I am not enjoying the tennis match also and I hate this fact.

There is a stadium just behind my housing society called the Thakur Stadium. I used to be proud of this place for a simple reason that once 'my god' Mr. Sachin Ramesh Tendulkar had graced this stadium with his presence. Today, I hate the fact that there is a stadium near my house. As if the loudspeakers in the nearby societies were not enough, some local congress leaders have organized a full day... yes a FULL DAY kushti pratiyogita aka dangal (wrestling competition) there and since 9 AM in the morning and till right now i.e. 6pm I can hear a lot of local leaders shouting at the top of their voices. I dont know who is there to listen to them since morning. but I am totally screwed, my day is screwed and so has my wife's day. She had planned a lot for the day, including shopping but all for fail coz she knows once my mood is off there is nothing in the world that can make it better. I call up the local police station and shout at them but I know in advance that they can not do anything coz this 'dangal' is being presided over by Mr. Sanjay Nirupam an ex shiva sena now in congress (and big boss's house) and some of the names in the organizers list is Some bhai thakur (thakur village, thakur complex all are named after him and i hear are owned by him and i hear he is a dangerous guy and a ahh a 'leader' also) So now I am sure no one can do anything to cheer me up and save the day for my wife. I still shout at the cop at the local police station and some one at the anti pollution helpline but I am sure no one has the balls to do any thing.

all i can do is pray to god that some how god ji do some thing that days like 26/01, 15/08 and 02/10 do not come again. these days no longer excite me and if there is something i really hate and do not want to see is these dates in my calender. let me sign off, biwi has a dictionary in hand... she is checking the meaning of 'republic' there...

Monday, January 25, 2010

Hafta... Chanda... Car Logo's and Lift glasses

Somehow i dont like the saturdays... atleast the first half of it. I have a pact with my wife because of which I have to go for vegetable shopping at the nearby Samta Nagar market every saturday morning. Which means no sleeping late :(.

Like every other saturday, Santa goes shopping this saturday also. This time i notice a placard placed in front of every stall saying (in marathi) 'birthday gift to saaheb, no more plastic bags to be used'. Even though most of the stall owners are from UP, they all follow every thing ordered by the local Shiv Sena branch. Offcourse they followed this one also, no plastic bags. Thankfully we always carry our own bag while vegetable shopping so it didn't affect us.

I ask the guy from whom we buy vegetables daily, "kitna hafta dete ho is jagah ka shiv sena waalo ko? (How much tax you pay the shiva sena guys weekly for allowing you to place your stall in this place illegaly). He says zero. The local shiva sena/mns does not take hafta. He has to pay 'hafta' only to the BMC guys and the local cops. I was impressed, seriously. How much I ask (hafta)... 800/1000 rs per wk, which makes it around 3500 per month... 'not bad at all man, you will have to pay around 15000 as rent if you have to have a legal/proper shop of this size' i say. He says yes but they are still paying around 8-10K per month. 'How?'. He Says this month was a walking rally of around 2000 devotees to shirdi so all the vendors had to pay "chanda (donation)" which was collected by Shiv Sena. Like wise there would be Diwali, Holi, Ganesh chaturthi, durga pooja, etc etc etc and therefore their rent (?) remains the same every month. Wonderful I say. And I was thinking so nice of SS/MNS that they dont take 'hafta', spread the word of 'no plastics', organize huge ganapati stalls, shirdi walkathons and so much for the community. I thought my perception of these guys was really biased coz of the books i read or the people i met. These vendors, though, are still happy... "who pays rent when you get the same space for almost 1/3rd the cost if you are smart enough?"

A few minutes later when our shopping is done and we are about to pay the potato wala, the guy just runs away. We are standing in front of his stall and no one is there. We've already bought our potatoes and when we want to pay this guy runs away. for a moment the wicked santa overtook the nice one and I was so happy that I wont have to pay and i thot of running away with a bagfull of potatoes. When I looked around, all the vendors were gone with their stalls full of vegetables, fruits etc. I was so happy, it was like dream come true, entire market in front of me and no one to ask for money. I can pick up anything and just go to home. Actually. Then comes a Police Van with around 15-20 cops running around and catching any one they can, which mostly consisted of fruit/vegetable vendors who were old/female/handicapped and could not run away. Health is Wealth you see, All the fitter ones ran away and avoided Rs. 1250 fine which the ones who got caught had to pay.

I stand around to watch the drama. I can see a couple of people doing what wicked santa was trying to convince me to do; picking up grapes, oranges, capsicum and filling their bags and moving away. Another 10-15 minutes and all the vendors start coming back one by one (offcourse the police van is gone with those unlucky ones). Within 120 seconds, the business is normal as it was before the van came. People are buying vegetables and vendors are selling as if nothing had happened. I ask the same guy "Gopal, what is this happening? you said BMC/Police take hafta's and you dont have to worry" He says " arre sahab, paise kamane hain to mehnat to karni hi padegi na, ye hota rehta hai har 10-15 din me, ho pakda gaya uska 1250 Rs. loss jo bach gaya wo shana" He says this is an exercise he does almost every alternate weekend. The cops come and take their fitness test, the fitter ones save 1250 rs. that ways establishing the fact that health is fact. The cops will come again in next 10-15 days and some other guys will be caught, some will manage to run and hide and things will go on like this forever.

Well, a good outing. We come back to our cozy and safe housing society guarded 24 hrs by scores of security guards. The first thing I notice is that the glass that is normally there above the lift door handle (so we can see when the lift has come to our floor) is missing. I thought some repair work. When I am going for a small picnic with society friends, one of them tells me about this new business model. Go to all the societies and just remove the lift door glasses and you can make good 10-15K every month (with so many housing societies in small areas, you wont have to go many places). Business innovation...

Then while we are on our drive to Manori, a wkend get away we see a BMW overtaking us swiftly. The friend driving our santro tells us about another business model. He tells us to observe the rear of that BMW and tell us what is missing. We find the car logo. On our way, we could see that in as much as 50% of the big cars (BMW, Merc, Corolla, City etc) the car logo's (normally of steel) are missing. Then the other car of our own group over takes us, and we can't stop laughing "See, Manish ki car ka bhi logo gayab hai". Manish owns a Honda City and has paid 2500 twice to get the car logo pasted and now he manages with Ben10 stickers instead of the 'H' logo of the honda city. He say's although he doesn't like it but it works for him. His dealer only told him while replacing his logo the third time "Manish sahab, ho sakta hai ye logo aapki hi car ka ho". He means to say that there is high probability that the logo he is putting up on his car is the same one stolen a few days back". There is a gang of guys who employ school/college students and remove all the car logo's from the big cars in day time and sell it to the dealers at around 500/700 Rs. each. They say the logo's of merc/bmw etc can fetch them as much as 5-7K (which the dealer will sell to the customer at 12-13K.

I now know the real meaning of this song... "zara bachke, zara hatke.. ye hai mumbai meri jaan"


Thursday, January 21, 2010

Survival in maximum city

Yesterday was a really bad. In this maximum city, you get more reasons than people in any other city to enjoy life and at the same time you get even more reasons that make your day bad. Irony is that a person who has not been to Mumbai will in his life never understand these reasons. Thats why I love the name "Maximum City" given to Bombay given by Suketu Mehta. You don't even know what you have missed in life unless you spend some time in Mumbai.

I got up a little late last morning, some trouble kept me in the bed till a little late (probably the after effect of the great Mumbai Marathon of last sunday was still there). Some how managed to motivate myself to work and left home by 8:15. My dad/brothers back home in raipur or Friends in any other city will be shocked to know that i call leaving home at 8:15 late. The wonderful AC Special buses the BEST (acronym) has started in Mumbai has served as a big boon for the Mumbaikars like me who hate the lifeline of mumbai... aka the local train. So by 8:20 I was at the bus stop waiting for my AC Bus. I missed the7:55 one and thought will catch 8:20 one and reach office by 9:30 - 9 :45. Was reading 'Mint' which I have heard/read that people who are part of a special community read. Even I feel special when I read 'Mint' not because I love reading it or there are lots of interesting articles to be read but because it makes me feel like a part of 'Mint Readers community'. That is the effect of Media on us. I carry 'Mint' with me on my daily travel, not to read but to show off. I dont know how many people in Mumbai actually bother to even see what the person standing/sitting next to him is doing but i still think someone will notice that I am carrying a 'Mint' and think that this guy looks like some corporate manager-to-be-CEO. Anyways, the mint story later.

So I am happy showing off Mint while playing "Ibn-e-Batuta and Dhan-te-nan" on my earphones. Suddenly i realise that its already 9:15 and i have waited for more than 45 minutes and the bus has still not come. Thats mumbai. If it was Raipur, I would have walked to my shop (which my dad says is quite far from home) in less than an hour. How can I explain that the relation between when you leave home and when you reach office is not linear and simple. If i leave home at 7:50, I reach office at 8:55 while if I leave home by 8:00, there is no way i will reach my office by 9:45. Mumbai teaches you what your parents/teachers could not, the importance of time. I have seen so many people who target 7:52 Borivli-Churchgate local every morning that their life is tuned to it. They can not afford to be 1 min late and the consistency at which they have been taking the same train daily for years/decade really really surprises me and tells me what I know that I am one of the laziest persons here and not made for mumbai. Even if they stay 5-6 kms away from the station and depend on share-auto-rickshaws or busses to reach to local station, they still manage to reach on time.

The same phenomenon happens in the evening as well where I miss my 6:25 bus and have to wait till 7:25 to get the next bus. Its not that there is no bus in that one hour duration that I weight. Its just that Mumbai is trying to teach me a lesson by making sure there is traffic or some mechanical problem with the buses in that duration and I wait till 7:25 just as a punishment for not respecting the timelines and there by not respecting the culture of the city.

Anyways, I take that bus. Cross Siddhivinayak, take forehead and lips with the index finger of mine and ask Ganpati Bappa to take care of me in this maniac city. All through my way, I see hoardings/billboards of Bal Thakrey announcing his birthday on 23rd of January and the celebrations scheduled for the same. I see hundreds of different faces on those faces congratulating The old man who almost ruined this city and is still trying to do it. I was just wondering what do these people get by putting up big billboards all around the city wishing the old many a happy birthday and announcing some cricket competition or some rally or some yagya somewhere. I dont think the old man has the guts/energy to travel the entire city and see what his followers are doing for him. I dont think the public (like me) will ever notice those hundreds of faces in the hoardings. After every 250 odd meters there would a new hoarding with another set of 10-15 new faces wishing their so called tiger a happy b'day. I said f'get it, they must be of those groups where people just like to see their faces anywhere possible and so they spend all this money to see their faces on roads on billboards or may be impress their gals by doing so.

In the evening I meet some contractor who works with my wife(she is an interior designer). This contractor and his team of around 15 odd guys (all present at that place) are all from U.P. and are actually having a good time in Mumbai. A couple of them are involved in some murder cases while most of them are really innocent and cute and don't even know the ABCD of politics or violence. I casually asked him what is he upto these days. He says he is supporting one of his guys who is supporting one of the NCP candidates in the forthcoming elections. I said great. "tumne lalchand ka photo nahi dekha kya thakur complex me", says Mr Sunil the contractor who himself has been involved in a couple of murder cases, is younger than me, owns a flat in mira road, is married and has a hobby of changing mobile phones and bikes every alternate months.

I then thought this might answer some of the questions that came to my mind while on the way watching those hoardings. Apparently, neither the thakrey (or soniya or whoever is being wished) goes around watching these wishes and saying thankyou to all these people nor the common junta watches and is affected by these photos. Interestingly, the local vendors; the chai wallahs, vadapav wallas, fruit and vegetable vallas, pirated CDs vendors, second hand books vendors etc who consider the lanes and by lanes around the main roads(??) as something written to them in their fathers will are the real target segment for these outdoor exhibitions. If your photo is seen in any of these hoardings, you get a licence to collect 'hafta' and you become the owner of that street/area and all these vendors pay you a weekly fee for being allowed to continue their business in these their father owned service lanes. Interesting, I thought. If I put something of this sort promoting Amar Chitra Katha I will have to get permits from various babu's in BMC even if I pay the regular fee for it while these guys get paid for doing so.

The next day I go to the passport application acceptance office. I have been to this place a couple of times while my wife also has been to this place a lot of times. Every time we show our documents to the guy accepting (?) the applications (i.e. if we manage to reach till the counter in 5-6 hours enduring the heat in the long waiting ques) ,the babu has a different objection; "what is the proof that you are mr. Santosh Thourani's wife? - I say the Marriage certificate, he says : "what is the proof that the MC is authentic" -I say i got the original also, he says "the original doesn't look authentic" - I say what can I do about it, you can see the seal and sign of the some office from the Government of Chattisgarh, he says"you need to give a proof saying this certificate is authentic, go to raipur and get an affidavit made"... and this went on for around 10 months. Every time we went there, we were asked for some other document/affidavit. Only I know how many affidavits i finally got made which were still of no use. "are aapne ye affidavit kyu banvaya, marathi me banwane ka tha, aapke photu nahi lagele hain us par... etc etc etc"

Then finally I decided to go to an agent (i had decided i will get the passport without paying any bribes and through a proper system as some body had told me that the system has improved and it is easy to get the passport without any agent or bribes now). I still hate that I had to go through an agent because that I could have done 1 year back also. nevertheless, I go to the agent and he says give me whatever you have. I gave him all the documents and the affidavits I had got made. He threw all of them aside and said only one affidavit will be required and he will get it made and charge 200 Rs. extra for it. "Come the next day with your wife and these original documents to the passport office" he says, he fills the form for me. I go to the passport office at 10:10 the next day, he gives me a filled form and I and my wife sign wherever required. Then we straight away go to the 'babu' accepting the forms. We cross a long cue of around 50-60 people waiting for their turn (i immediately reminded me of my past one year where i was in their shoes a lot of times). The babu is waiting for me, I show him my form and the documents. He doesn't even looks at the original documents. I give him my wife's form and documents, fingers crossed, he says one original document is missing. I say "he he he, sir jee dekh lijiye na, original kahi kho gaya hai", he says "he he he, baggal ke counter par payment kar ke receipt le lo" and my work is done.

The agent calls me and tells me that the form has reached the samta police station (wow, in 2 days) and go there and give a 100 note to the cop and get your documents verified. I go to the police station and give the cop my receipt. He gives me 2 options; (1) pay 500 and all verifications will be done here and no cop will come to my house for further verification. (2) do not pay anything and wait for the cops to come to your house and then pay them there and then come to the station and then again pay me here. I take the first one and he fills all my forms and does everything for me, I make a few signatures and he smiles and the work is done.

Looks like I am learning slowly the tricks of the game called "Survival in the Maximum City"

maximum city

Just finished reading maximum city by suketu mehta. A good read it was, however, i would definitely like to disagree with whoever said it is an exciting book and the best ever written about the maximum city "mumbai". It was good in parts, some of the chapters we so exciting that even i was surprised at the speed with which i finished those. But then, there came repetitiveness after you finish 60% of it and towards the end it is so dragged that you at times lose interest. Not to say that it is bad anywhere, however, towards the end the writer goes into an altogether different and personal mode and i dont think i am interested in knowing about his school or rainy days during his child hood. He definitely establishes the connection but a little late than i would have liked it to. Till the time i reach the place where he is trying to give the bigger picture, i am really not as excited and probably am reading the book at a very slow pace.

Suketu has really gone for details. I still have my doubts whether whatever he has written is a part of his imagination or he has actually and really gone so far and collected all those stories. If yes, then hats off to him, For this is the first time I am reading some really amazing facts about the city I am living in for last couple of years. This book also gives you an idea of how this city has evolved (??). How this wonderful city has seen people like Thakrey and other killing the basic meaning of Bombay, the very basic reason why Bombay is what it is. And I can not agree more with him in this that because of a couple of families, this city today is not what i could have been. Having said that, the city still is one of the most fascinating cities I have ever seen (haven't seen many tho). I am not very sure whether I will be able to now live in a place any other than mumbai.

I think "Maximum City" is the world that describes Bombay as perfectly as no other word of phrase.